Probably settled by the invading Saxons in the early 6th century, Essex is one of the earliest Anglo-Saxon
kingdoms of southeast England. It was long dominated by Mercia (a kingdom ruled by warlike kings such as
Offa) and then by the neighbouring Kingdom of Wessex before being included in the Danelaw territories
(ruled by Scandinavian invaders) from 886 to 917.
The ancient town of Saffron Walden, known for its timber-framed buildings, is dominated by its market and its
church (said to be the biggest in Essex).
The Essex Coast was once known for smugglers. Novelist Arthur Ransome set his smuggling stories in
the backwaters behind Walton-in-the-Naze. The nearby salt marshes and mudflats of Hamford Water are
an important wildlife habitat. Coastal resorts such as Southend-on-Sea, Clacton-on-Sea and Frinton-on-Sea
offer that very English blend of summer fun, comprising elements such as seaside piers, deckchairs for
rent, holiday guesthouses and cheap cafes.
Audley End House and Park in Saffron Walden is a palatial, stunning Jacobean mansion remodeled in the late 18th and early 19th centuries by the Earl of
Suffolk. It is open to the public at certain times of the year. Earlier, it was purchased by the profligate Charles II, the "Merry Monarch".
Charles had by then taken to wearing enormous black wigs. When he came to the throne he had a mane of curly black hair, but the pressures of
office (and of juggling numerous mistresses) turned him "mighty grey" in just three years. Later (much!) Edward 7th reputedly used to visit
his lady friend (?) at Audley End House, and to facilitate his discreet arrival and departure also reputedly had an extension to the
railway line made for this.
Today, Audley End railway station is a huge car park with a small railway station in the middle of nowhere,
with its car park filled with Jags, (Jaguar) Beemers (BMW) & other expensive cars, and is the commute of choice for the cities finest weekday warriors
from the surrounding 'stock belt' area with their million pound country houses.
On winter nights, the car park is the scene of much activity;
with countrified & sensibly dressed wives in their top of the range Range-Rovers picking up their warrior husbands from the 6.28 commute
from London...
Nearby is a personal favourite, the beautiful, tiny little village of Arkesden, a picture postcard village of only about 50 thatched houses (and a pub!) where we
lived for a year or so in 1999 in a 16th century Elizabethan cottage - "Long Thatches".
Arkesden also has a lovely, very old and historic Norman church. The Pub - the 17th century "Axe & Compass" has, (or did have!) dare I say, the finest pub food in all of Great Britain. On a Saturday & Sunday a
sea of expensive cars swamp the pub, as people drive across two counties or more to have lunch there. If you are ever through that way, make time to
visit Arkesden and the Axe & Compass, you won't be disappointed! Oh, and by the way, say hello to Betty at the tiny Post Office opposite!
The nearby
village of Clavering, also has another good pub ran by parents of Jamie Oliver, the star of "The Naked Chef" TV show. Jamie sometimes turns up,
but not often. Food here is good, service is well, so-so, and also much more expensive than Arkesden.
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