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England > London > Marylebone & Regent's Park

In medieval times Marylebone was St Mary-by-the-Bourne, one of London's outlying villages. Londoners used to clip-clop along to it by horse and cart - the journey didn't take long.

As London expanded to the west in the 18th century, Robert Harley, Earl of Oxford, developed the Marylebone district and erected grand Georgian houses. Today, the area's Georgian squares and enteel streets provide pleasant afternoon strolling within a stone's-throw of Regents Park. Marylebone High Street retains a village-like charm.

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Sights in the area include Madame Tussaud's (incredibly popular with London visitors - as you can tell from the perpetual queues), the adjoining Planetarium, the new BBC Experience in Broadcasting House, the Wallace Collection and Sherlock Holmes' old headquarters of Baker Street. The nearest Tube stations are Regent's Park, Baker Street and Great Portland Street.

Regent's Park was laid out by master architect John Nash in 1812 as a perfect setting for the neo-Classical villas loved by the upper classes. Long before that the land on which the park now lies belonged to the church - until Henry VIII seized it as a private hunting ground. Henry had a habit of that sort of thing - in fact he's responsible for most of London's parks. The ill-tempered king would have been amazed (and possibly outraged) to learn that he was acting as a future public benefactor!

While exploring this lovely piece of London green, don't miss Cumberland Terrace on the park's eastern edge, a neo-Classical masterpiece. From a distance, some of the houses look like white-sugar decorations for a wedding cake.

The Inner Circle and Queen Mary's Gardens make for pleasant wandering. The Boating Lake with its loud and argumentative residents (a large collection of water birds) is an enchanting warm-weather idyll and the Open Air Theatre puts on twilight Shakespearean performances in the summer months. When performed on a midsummer night, A Midsummer Night's Dream is as dreamlike as you could ever wish.

Elsewhere in the park, not far away, you can catch glimpses of London Central Mosque, with it's great shining dome and minaret. The mosque, completed in 1978, no longer seems incongruous - it has blended into its surroundings, reflecting modern London's diversity. You can visit it if you like, but visitors must remove their shoes and women should cover their heads. There's a separate gallery for women.


London Zoo in the park's northeastern corner, founded in 1826, is loved especially by children. It has survived a few funding crises recently and is worth a visit. Be sure to catch Lord Snowdon's huge tent-like aviary. Snowdon, an internationally famous photographer, was formerly married to Princess Margaret - not that it affected his work on the aviary.


Through the Zoo runs Regent's Canal. The stretch between the agreeable town houses of Little Venice (Warwick Avenue tube) and Camden Town (Camden Town tube) is plied by three ferry companies. A great way to spend part of an afternoon! The canal also runs through St John's Wood, one of London's ultra-smart suburbs (and ferociously pricey) where residents include Sir Paul McCartney and Britain's Virgin empire supremo, Richard Branson.

Marylebone proper (and it's very proper) lies south of Regent's Park and offers London's highest concentration of Georgian housing. Marylebone High Street still manages to retain a relaxed air - or relaxed by the standards of most elsewhere in London. St Marylebone Parish Church in this street was where Elizabeth Barrett married fellow poet Robert Browning in 1846 after eloping from her nearby home. Outside the church you can see a facsimile of the marriage certificate.


Madame Tussaud's lies at the western end of Marylebone High Street. The Spirit of London time-travel ride here (in modified London taxi cabs) has become as popular an exhibit as the celebrated dummies. The original Madame Tussaud began her career in Paris, making plaster death masks of freshly guillotined victims of the Revolution. Realising that this vocation had a limited life span (like the victims), the good lady moved to London - and never looked back. Everyone from Hitler to Nicole Kidman is seen here these days - in effigy, anyway.

The London Planetarium is in the same complex as Madame Tussaud's. The big gee-whiz attraction here is the 30-minute Planetary Quest virtual-reality presentation - a trip and a half if ever there was one. Best interplanetary experience you can have without undergoing blastoff and zero gravity.


Further down Marylebone High Street you'll find Baker Street and Baker Street tube station. Head north along Baker Street and you pass the London Transport Lost Property Office, a long-established institution where everything left on London Tubes and buses (and found by honest travellers) ends up. The office is said to contain a room stocked with 100,000 umbrellas, all of them black and covered with the dust of decades, administered by a little old man in pince-nez spectacles. (It's just a legend - unclaimed brollies are auctioned off!)


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