Haworth, home to the fabulously talented Bronte sisters (and their wayward brother Branwell), is an English literary shrine rivalled only by
Stratford-upon-Avon, yet rather less crowded (mercifully). Haworth and its surroundings feature in various guises in the writings of Anne,
Branwell, Charlotte and Emily Bronte. You can still walk up to Top Withins, the now-ruined building that was the model for Wuthering Heights.
Ponden Hall, said to be the original Thrushcross Grange, is not far away. The country around here is wild and windswept, an ideal setting for
dramatic, romantic and brooding fiction. Main Street, running down to Bridgehouse Breck (stream), is still cobbled and crows still call
raucously from trees around the Parsonage (the Bronte's home) with its sprawling graveyard. You can drop into Branwell's favourite pub, the Black Bull.
He was so fond of he place he more or less drank himself to death there between 1845 and 1848.
Branwell destroyed his health, suffering several attacks of delirium tremens. On one occasion, his bedclothes caught fire while he was knocking back a
few nightcaps. Anne found him and tried to rouse him, then called the stronger Emily, who was able to drag him to safety. In the Parsonage, the room
where the Bronte's wrote their novels is on view. A large collection of their original writings and sketches is preserved for inspection, along with
much original furniture, clothes and lockets of fading hair. Victorians were very fond of lockets of hair. The Bronte's used to walk straight out
onto the moor, with its wild tangle of heather and rocks, to gain inspiration for their works.
Pickering on the eastern moors is the starting point of the restored North Moors Railway, one of the earliest railways in the world. It's a great way to
reach picturesque Newtondale, one of the moors' best dales. Dale, by the way, means an open valley, usually in an area of low hills.
Author's note:
I once spent a night in the little Yorkshire village of Middleham, known for its ruined castle. My accommodation was Waterford House, a late 17th
century stone-built Yorkshire residence (Grade II Heritage listed) standing on hill overlooking the market square.
My stay at this establishment (a cross between a guesthouse and a private hotel) provided a surprising insight into the sort of facilities and dining you
can encounter (if you're lucky!) in a small Yorkshire village. For a start, there were more than 500 wines available. I understand the selection has
since reached 800. I didn't sample them all but the one I had was superb - as was the after-dinner Armagnac. Cuisine was excellent, with choice of
home-cooked dishes such as roast rabbit, and rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic.
Breakfast offered a choice of 14 types of cereal, or a magnificent cooked option including bacon, eggs, black pudding, mushrooms, tomato and sausage -
the sort of repast that makes eating unnecessary for the rest of the day. The feature of my stay that really stays in my memory, however, had nothing to
do with the guesthouse or the food. I had been travelling alone and I arrived in the dining room alone. Shortly after I was seated and had begun
perusing the menu, a man arose from another table (at which two couples were seated) and approached me.
"We couldn't help notice that you were about to eat alone," he said in rich Yorkshire accent." If you'd like to come and join our table, you'd be most
welcome -- unless you'd rather stay by yourself." Pleased at the invitation, I joined their table for what turned into a very pleasant evening of amiable
conversation and excellent food.
It's often noted that England becomes "more friendly the more north you travel" - and that proved it for me. I had then lived in London for five years,
and knew from experience that dinnertime invitations from strangers never occurred there. It's not that London is unfriendly - it's just that it shares
the indifferent anonymity that marks big cities around the world. Middleham was a welcome change!
Wensleydale in the western dales is a beautiful spot, surrounded by spectacular scenery. The attractive Aysgarth Falls waterfall is close at hand,
and the abbeys of Jervaulx and Coverham are not far away. If you are familiar with Wallace and Gromit, the Oscar-winning plasticine characters
created by British animator Nick Park, you will be familiar with Wensleydale cheese, Wallace's favourite food. Steven Spielberg's production house is
considering making an 80-minute feature film based on the antics of the Wensleydale-eating Wallace and his Bach-loving dog Gromit, so
Wensleydale may soon be - gasp - world famous!
Wakefield boasts All Saints Cathedral with the highest spire in Yorkshire (247 feet, but who's counting?). The city is better known as Britain's
capital of forced rhubarb, which (as you may already know) is rhubarb, which is grown out of season in dark, heated sheds. You can't really claim to
have visited England until you have taken a tour of the Wakefield rhubarb sheds. (Yes you can! Editor.) Wakefield offers rhubarb tours, along with
rhubarb meals. You've missed this year's Wakefield Festival of Rhubarb (sorry to break that news), but don't fret -another Festival of Rhubarb is
usually held each January. If you're one of those odd people who find it difficult to become ecstatic about rhubarb, Wakefield offers other diversions.
A visit to the National Coal Mining Museum for England will allow you to venture 250 feet underground and experience conditions endured by coal miners.
The village of Masham (pronounced Massem rather than Mashem) is the home of Theakston's brewery, known for its repertoire of fine beers, including the
mighty Theakston's Old Peculier. The peculiar spelling of Peculier indicates that the name is an ancient title - in this case "The Seal of the Masham
Peculier Court". Er, what was that? Never mind, a couple of pints of Old Peculier and you won't worry about it. On the brewery tour, you'll learn to
tell your kilderkins from your hogsheads and firkins. They are all different sorts of barrels. In the good old days, young coopers (barrel makers) would complete their apprenticeship with a jolly initiation ceremony. The apprentice was placed in a barrel, covered with beer and beer mash and then rolled down the road. When the barrel came to rest, the apprentice had to spring out of it and drink a foaming pint of Theakston's Old Peculier to pass the test. Hurrah! Theakston's have been making their beer for five generations - its exact ingredients are a secret. Perhaps sample the brew in The White Bear, a pub within the brewery. As well as beer, The White Bear serves dishes such as "Old Peculier Beef and Mushroom Casserole". Another brewery in the village (appropriately called The Black Sheep) was founded by a breakaway Theakson's family member. That's worth a visit, too.
Sheffield
Sheffield today is a prosperous, vibrant city best known world wide for its famous cutlery and Sheffield steel. In 1720 a Linconshire clockmaker Benjamin Huntsman, started a series of experiments that resulted in the making of crucible steel, on which Sheffield steel is founded. Today Sheffield offers an extensive array of visitor attractions and vibrant quality experiences. The city's offering of galleries and museums is impressive and houses everything from rare and ancient artefacts to the latest in contemporary art.
Whether your interests lie in industrial or cultural heritage there is lots to explore in Sheffield. Internationally renowned stately homes such as Chatsworth and Hardwick Hall, sit on its doorstep. Sheffield also prides itself on the beauty and richness of its open spaces. Sheffield is one of the greenest cities in Europe with many woodlands, over 50 public parks, formal gardens, canal walks, nature trails and stunning countryside with the Peak District National Park nearby.
Sheffield also prides itself on a rich cultural heritage and no stay in the city is complete without a visit to one of its many art galleries and museums, with the Millennium Galleries an excellent place to start. As the National City of Sport, Sheffield has an enviable choice of world-class facilities including the prestigious English Institute of Sport. These include Europe ’s largest ice complex and all season ski resort, Olympic swimming pool, golf courses, tennis and squash courts, and more besides. Outdoor enthusiasts will appreciate the proximity of the Peak District and all it has to offer for walkers, cyclists and climbers. Sheffield ’s famous sporting events also include World Snooker and British Open Show jumping.
For shopping, you will be spoilt for choice. A short Supertram ride from the centre is Meadowhall, one of Europe 's biggest shopping malls with more than 270 stores. The City Centre complements Meadowhall perfectly, with its broad pedestrianised streets, high-street stores and independent designer shops.
Sheffield also rocks for nightlife – and is truly alive and kicking with an outstanding all-year-round entertainment programme. Internationally renowned clubbing brands, guest DJs and touring theatre productions offer a quality after dark experience with a pioneering mix of style, vibe and value. Across the city you can also enjoy fantastic food from around the world or relax in an array of cafes, bars and bistros.
Sheffield Tourism Guide
Sheffield Tourism Map
Sheffield Tourism Road Map
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