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Ireland > Ulster > County Antrim

Located very close to Scotland, Antrim is in places very Scottish with accents much the same. In ancient times it was more a part of Scotland than Ireland. Of interest, the word 'Scots' comes from the old Irish 4th century verb `to raid'. It was from here that the `Scotti' people visited Scotland, often as raiders. The Romans called Ireland `Scotia' as it was from here the raids emanated from. It was not until around the 12th century that the name/word 'Scotia' was used as the new name for what we know now as Scotland.


The coastline of Antrim is magnificent, and regarded as the most spectacular and scenic of any coastline in Europe. The winding A2 coastal road passes through picturesque small fishing villages and the best-known attraction in County Antrim - the Giant's Causeway, one of Northern Ireland's most remarkable attractions. A stone freak of nature facing the sea, the Giant's Causeway consists of thousands of large columns of basalt packed tightly together. Blocks are almost perfectly hexagonal, looking like sections of honeycomb. Waves break over parts of the Causeway and it can be very windy up there. It's said there are 37,500 basalt columns there, if you include the ones underwater. Whoever conducted this monumental count was clearly mad - or at the very least, a trifle obsessive.


Early dwellers in the area ascribed the Causeway to the legendary giant Finn McCool, said to be able to pick thorns out of his feet while running and capable of enormous feats of strength - such as knocking together a quick causeway. Signs warn visitors not to climb it, but everybody does and most seem to survive.


Port Ballintrae, a little harbour town, holds the dubious distinction of being the only British town shelled by the Germans in World War II. The shots were fired from a passing submarine and did little damage. Dunluce Castle not far away dates from the 14th century (in parts, anyway) and is open April through September.


Bushmills, on the River Bush, is best known as the site of Bushmills Distillery, the world's oldest legal distillery. The earliest official record of distilling here was in 1608, but locals had been distilling and drinking whiskey for centuries before that. If you enjoy a whiskey or five, a tour is well worth the effort. You get to compare Irish whiskey (which is distilled three times) with Scotch (distilled twice) and Bourbon (once). Once you've got that right, you sample Bushmills and about three other brands of Irish whiskey, for comparison. You then choose you favourite (hic!) and have a nip of it. I happened to lose my tasting notes and was compelled to repeat the whole process. Just don't plan on driving afterwards - and treat walking with caution.


Ballycastle marks the end of the so-called Causeway Coast. A particularly beautiful drive is from Ballygally to Ballycastle through the glens of Antrim along the A2 Coast road which links each of the 9 Glens of Antrim - Glenarm, Glencoy, Glenariff, Glenballyeamon, Glenaan, Glencorp, Glendun Glenshesk and Glentaise. The glens are stunning and rich in folklore and history. Ballycastle is a lovely resort town, with the ancient Ould Lamma's fair, (first started in 1606), is held each year here at the end of August and local visitors from the adjacent Scottish Islands travel over for the fair. Ballycastle also has a great museum and the Bonamargy Friary and is a convenient place to base yourself from which to see the surrounding landscapes.


Eight miles from Ballycastle is Rathlin Island, just 4 miles long but famous for its history of smugglers and pirates and it's Scots Gaelic speaking population. It is supposedly the place where Scottish leader Robert the Bruce hid in a cave in 1306, spotting the spider whose web-building perseverance (it inspired the saying "If at first you don't succeed - try and try again") led the chieftain to go out and defeat the English army (not single-handed, of course - he had a little help). The island is not far from Scotland's Mull of Kintyre, which inspired Paul McCartney's song. On the mainland, you can spot 'the Mull' from grandly scenic Murlough Bay.


Villages and towns of interest in these parts include Cushendall overlooking Moyle Bay, Carnlough (with a fine beach and striking limestone buildings), Glenarm and Islandmagee. A valley in Glenariff Forrest Park near Cushendall was described as a "Switzerland in miniature" by the writer Thackeray.


Carrickfergus, basically a suburb of Belfast, is the site of Carrickfergus Castle. This is Ireland's finest castle and also its oldest, built by John de Courcy after he invaded in 1177. It was besieged by England's King John in 1210, which gives an idea of its antiquity. Don't miss it.


The most pleasant spot in Antrim Town is Antrim Castle Gardens just behind the courthouse. Don't go looking for the castle - it has long since burned down. Lough Neagh, the biggest lake in Ireland (in the whole of the British Isles, for that matter) is not far from Antrim Town. Local legend holds that Finn McCool, (that cool giant again), made the lake by scooping it out with his hands. All in a day's work. The town of Ballymena is the birthplace of two very different men: Protestant leader Ian Paisley and actor Liam Neeson. Take your pick.


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