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Ireland > Connacht > County Galway

County Galway is as Irish as it gets. With over 50% of the population still speaking Gaelic it is the second largest county. Located in the west of Ireland, it stretches from the wild and untouched region of Connemara in the west, to the Shannon and Lough Derg in the east.

It encompasses within it all that one could want, peace and solitude with miles of lonely vales and rich farming land, superb isolated beaches, great fishing in Lough Corrib and the salmon stuffed rivers of Owenglin and Dawros, world class restaurants with the freshest of local delicacies, great bars and pubs, and the cultural and academically rich city of Galway, the heart and capital of the county. County Galway is a capsule of what people who have never been to Ireland imagine all Ireland to be.

In summer, the fertile farmland glows green, the Galway Races are held in July, traditional ship races take place off Kinvara in August and the Galway Oyster Festival is held in September. In other seasons, moody mists and pounding seas prevail and the region's untamed spirit refreshes wanderers from all over the world. Mysterious and beautiful remains at Clonfert and Kilmacduagh evoke the Monastic period in this region, which has been inhabited for over 5000 years.

In the west of County Galway, Connemara is one of Ireland's most striking regions, offering great walks. The Twelve Bens mountain peaks dominate the region and wildlife abounds, including badgers, foxes, otters and semi-wild Connemara ponies. The ponies are said to be of Arab stock, descended from those that swam ashore from the wreck of the Spanish Armada.


Galway, a town once known mainly for its oyster festival, its Guinness and its quaint atmosphere, has turned into one of Europe's fastest-growing cities, its streets thronged with young university students and European tourists. Galway's open-air market near the Church of St Nicholas evokes those in France, full of large wooden tubs of olives, all manner of cheeses, home-made pasta and bread, smoked eel and trout, spicy Thai and Indian snacks. It's hard to believe Galway was almost wiped out by Ireland's worst famine about a century and a half ago.


The Collegiate Church of St Nicholas of Myra contains the tomb of James Lynch, Mayor of Galway in the late 15th century, a man of such stern and unbending justice that he condemned his own son to death for murder and carried out the hanging himself when no-one else could be found to do it. On Market Street north of the church, a plaque marked with skull and crossbones marks the spot where the gallows stood.


The King's Head, a historic pub in Galway, is also worth a visit. It was founded by the Irish soldier chosen by Oliver Cromwell to execute King Charles I (whose forces Cromwell had defeated). The soldier used the purse of gold he received for carrying out this macabre task to build a pub. "The King's Head" is a common name among pubs in the British Isles, but nowhere else does it have so sinister a connotation. It's a great pub, by the way!


Kylemore Abbey on the shore of Kylemore Lough is as romantically beautiful as a building can be. Built by a 19th century tycoon in Gothic revival style, the Abbey is now run by Benedictine nuns, who also run a girl's boarding school there.


Maam Cross is one of the most photographed areas of Ireland. Nothing really exists here, but it is the epicentre of the region with breathtaking scenery surrounding it.


Kilmacduagh, situated approximately 4 miles south west of Gort has one of the most fascinating group of church buildings in all of Ireland, with a 12th century cathedral (really a small church but that's what its called!) - its on a bit of lean (think leaning tower of Pisa!) and has some beautiful carvings and a lovely round tower.


If you are into Yeats (and who isn't!) also near Goort is Thoor Ballylee, a lovely tower house that W.B Yeats bought for 17 pounds in 1917 in a very ruinous state. He partially restored it and lived here until 1929. Now restored by the tourism trust, it has many rare first editions of Yeats work exhibited here


A few miles away is Coole Park, which was the location of Lady Gregory's old house. Lady Gregory was another writer and co-founded the Abbey theatre in Dublin with Yeats. The cream of Irish literati stayed here in the 1920's including George Russell and George Bernard Shaw. Nothing is left now but the old spreading chestnut tree, a living visitor's book with famous initials carved into it still legible.


Connemara and the southern coast - here is true ancient Ireland, with most of the locals speaking only Gaelic. It stretches along the north of Galway Bay and along the Atlantic to Carna. Hilly and remote, few roads exist in this region. From nearby Rossaveal there are boat trips to the Aran Islands. This region still uses the ancient boat called the curragh, a small rounded boat that uses remarkable oars that don't have any blade incorporated into the oar. Impossible for any one other than a local to handle, these ancient boats can carry remarkable amounts of weight.


The Aran Islands consist of Inishmore, (`Inis Moir' - Big Island') Inisheer, (`Inis Oirr' - `East Island') and Inishmaan (`Inis Meain' - `Middle Island') With a total population of around 1200 hardy souls they are windswept, craggy, unspoilt and very beautiful with absolutely magnificent views, and are especially popular with visitors in summer. The islands have remains of very old Celtic stone forts believed to date back to 2500BC, and reputedly the home of the famous Fir Bolg after they were defeated by the Tuatha De' Danaan on the Moytura plains. The islands are unique in language and culture, archaeology and in their Celtic and early Christian heritage. You can take a ferry shuttle from Galway City or Ros a Mhil (Rossaveal) or fly out in six minutes from Connemara Airport with Aer-Arann.


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