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Ireland
>
Munster
> County Kerry
County Kerry is a place of wild splendour, packed with some of the most stunning scenery in Ireland. (What part of Ireland hasn't got stunning scenery!) It is an irregularly shaped county, also warmed by the Gulf stream current, with long narrow fingers of land stretching out into the sea, the home of the beautiful lakes of Killarney, and the grandest mountain range in the land, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks.
Golden hayricks, hazy summer saturated cornfields, brilliant wild flowers in hawthorn hedges, perfect size pocket handkerchief fields, and friendly hospitable people - it's all here. Off the coast an array of fascinating islands await that time has forgotten, Skelling Rocks, Valentia, and the beautiful but deserted Blaskets. County Kerry (Doesn't it roll off your tongue!) is perfect for long stays or short stays, short walks or long climbs - or the other way around, depending on your stamina.
Scenery around the Dingle Peninsula and the Iveragh Peninsula to the south is justly renowned in both cases. You can drop into local pubs and find Gaelic is the only language spoken. A few tots of the whiskey and you can almost understand it - funny that. On the roads, you sometimes pass characters carrying bundles of sticks who look like they have strolled straight out of the 18th century.
County Kerry offers a host of different routes, each with hazy mountain panoramas, wooden slopes and delightful scenery. The 13-mile (21km) scenic route over the Moll's Gap road to Killarney is one route. Another is the Ring of Kerry, with its winding lanes - or the 81-mile (130km) tour of the Dingle Peninsula, full of archaeological remains.
Antiquities lining the road around the Dingle Peninsula range from stones with runic inscriptions to Iron Age stone forts. Some signs are printed only in Gaelic.
Click on the headings to find out more:
Killarney
The Gap of Dunloe
The Ring of Kerry
The Skellig Islands
Gallarus Oratory
Tralee
Oliver Cromwell
Crag Cave
Blenerville Windmill
Aardfert Cathedral
Ryan's Daughter
Killarney
(or Cill Airne to impart the original Irish spelling) serves as gateway to the Ring of Kerry and has been Ireland's top town for tourism since 1750 when tourism first became popular here. But it's not all souvenir T-shirts and leprechaun mugs - there's a lot of history around. The town is not the attraction, it's the surrounding lakes, woods and mountains and the wonderful soft light in this part of the world that attracts visitors. A raincoat or jacket is a necessity, as the local coachmen (local guides: also known as 'jarveys') say, 'tis not rain - jest a little perspiration from the mountains' - hmm.
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The Gap of Dunloe
is about 6 miles west of Killarney, and is a wild gorge about 8 miles long and bordered on the back by the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, the purple mountains and Tomies mountains. Spectacular! The highest mountain in the nearby Macgillycuddy's Reeks is Carrantuohill, and at around three and a half thousand feet high is the highest mountain in Ireland. The journey through the Gap is spectacular, with steep gorges and deep glacial lakes and you have the choice of walking, or ride a bike or horse, or take a pony trap with the local Jarveys, but don't even think about driving your car up here as it won't be allowed on the narrow road. This area is fantastic for walking, and also great for taking a very pleasant boat ride on the nearby lakes.
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The Ring of Kerry
is a narrow road that is about 110 miles in circumference, and takes about 3 to 4 hours to drive without any major stops. Start at Kenmare, take the N70 and follow the snake like coils of the road south around the coast to St Finan's Bay, Bolus Head and Doulus Head, with the ring ending at Killorglin. You can do the trip in reverse, but most of the tour busses do this especially in summer, so it gets more than a tad clogged.
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The Skellig Islands
are a must see if time permits and if you are visiting this part of the country. The jagged islands are at the mouth of Ballinskelligs Bay and seem to rise suddenly from the sea on your approach. The home of millions of seabirds, it is a mecca for birdwatchers. It also has a 6th century monastery and the Skellig Heritage Centre for visitors. Visitor numbers are strictly controlled and the trip across is rather rough, so if you wish to visit you must check well ahead and be prepared if the weather turns foul as the trip could be cancelled.
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Gallarus Oratory
was built sometime after the 6th century AD and is Ireland's the best preserved early Christian church. It's built of dry stone - without mortar, that is - a form of building that proliferates here. Stones are laid at a slight angle so water runs off. The oratory is still dry inside.
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The town of
Tralee
is a logical starting point for visits to County Kerry. An attraction called Kerry the Kingdom at Tralee's Ashe Memorial Hall traces the county's history from earliest times, using real artefacts, scale models and audio-visual displays. If you're fortunate enough to visit Tralee during the Rose of Tralee festivities, you're in for a great time. This takes place in August and includes free outdoor entertainment, parades, horse-racing, dancing, revelry and, of course, the crowning of "The Rose of Tralee". Women of Irish ancestry come from around the world to seek the coveted title.
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Tralee was burned to the ground by
Oliver Cromwell's
army, so nothing of the medieval city remains, but the Kerry County Museum presents a taste of the old town - even to the extent of recreating medieval smells. (Phew!) When Tralee's rebellious Earl of Desmond was captured in the 16th century, his head was sent as a gift to Elizabeth I of England, who duly exhibited it on a spike on London Bridge.
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Crag Cave
, about 10 miles (16km) from Tralee and signposted from there, is an ancient fossil cave system formed of limestone. It lay unexplored until the 1980s, when it was found to be one of Ireland's longest cave systems. Its total surveyed length is 12,510 feet (3.8km). Lighting and a path have been installed. Open only from March to November.
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Blenerville Windmill
, Ireland's largest working windmill is open for visits daily, April to October. The town of Listowel has literary links and some lively pub theatres. On Tuesday evenings, catch the Listowel pub theatre at 37 William Street. On Wednesdays, The Pure Drop in Church Street is the place to be - it presents free dramatised readings and traditional music.
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Aardfert Cathedral
traces its roots to the cult of St Brendan the Navigator, who founded a monastery nearby in the 5th century. Not far to the northwest lies Banna Strand, the beach where scenes from David Lean's
Ryan's Daughter
were shot.
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