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Scotland
>
South of Scotland
> Galloway & Dumfries
With a population of 30,000, Dumfries is just a few miles from Solway Firth, which forms the western border between Scotland and England. Long known as the "Queen of the South,' this attractive and bustling town makes a good departure point for sightseeing excursions into the surrounding areas. Dumfries has important historical associations with national poet Robert Burns, as well as Robert the Bruce, as it was here that he slew Scotland's co-guardian, thus opening the second stage of the Wars of Independence.
The name of the ancient kingdom of Galloway, most of which is enclosed by Galloway Forest Park, is a popular base for outdoor activities. Within its boundaries are some of the most magnificent hiking and cycling trails of the Southern Uplands. Several trails amble past grassy peaks and icy lochs of the Awful Hand and Dungeon ranges, whilst others threads through Minnigaff Hills and Clatteringshaws Loch, a quiet lake surrounded by pine forest, with a 14-mile footpath around its circumference.
Click on the headings to find out more:
ACCOMMODATION
Auld Land Syne
Robert Burns House
Robert the Bruce's Early Battle Site
Salmon Fishing
Caerlaverock Castle
Sweetheart Abbey
Dundrennan Abbey
Christian Stones and Archaeological Excavations
Threave School of Gardening
Threave Castle
Cycling and Hiking in Galloway Forest Park
Dumfries is a good base, although there isn't much to do in the city itself. The numerous links to Scotland's most famous poet, Robert Burns, can all be seen in a day. Robbie was most famous for the composition of
Auld Lang Syne
- the song that we've universally adopted to welcome in a New Year. A statue on High Street features the great man holding a posy in one hand, clutching his heart with the other, with his faithful hound at his feet.
The Burns House
(now a museum) is where he spent the last three years of his life. There is a collection of memorabilia - manuscripts, letters and such, and one of the bedroom windows bears his signature, scratched with his diamond ring. Burns died of rheumatic heart disease in 1796 and was buried in a simple grave beside St. Michael's Church. Twenty years later, he was dug up, (or what was left of him) and moved to the Neoclassical Mausoleum, where he, his wife, and seven of their children are buried. The bright white columns hide a statue of Burns being accosted by the Poetic Muse.
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There are several sites that are worth a stop when driving along the road that cuts through the heart of Galloway Forest Park. Historical sites of interest are clearly marked as brown highway signs along the road. One worth a stop is Bruce's Stone, located in the little village of Galloway, a short walk from the Deer Museum, close to Rapploch Moss (now flooded), which is where
Robert the Bruce
achieved victory over English force. This is one of Bruce's earlier battles in this campaign for Independence from Edward the First.
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Newton Stewart is a lovely little town, and is most famed for its
salmon fishin
g. It is also a good starting point for exploration in the scenic Galloway Hills and Park area. There is a wonderful little seafood restaurant in the centre of the village - try the scampi!
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If you only see one attraction in the area, this is it.
Caerlaverock Castle
is truly not to be missed! Of all the historical castles in the area this is truly my favourite. Although the roof is gone, this is still one of the very few ancient fortresses that is almost completely intact. But what makes Caerlaverock a truly unique experience is that this is one of the few castles that you actually envision what the castle really looked like back in medieval times. You can actually close your eyes and pretend you are a knight coming in from a long ride as you cross the original drawbridge, duck through the gated entrance, and enter the great dining hall. You can explore the narrow passageways, stand in the scrolled fireplaces, sit in the dungeon, or climb the spiral staircase to the top floor. Get there early in the morning and watch the mist slowly rise over the moat. This is also a good place for an afternoon picnic, as there are several picnic tables, a large grass area, a children's play area, and a well marked nature trail.
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The little village of New Abbey is home to the only working Corn Mill in Southern Scotland. They only make pet food these days, but it is really interesting to see how corn and oats were milled years ago. Demonstrations are at 11am each morning, and don't forget to try the toffee in the lobby! As you drive out of the village, on your left is the
Sweetheart Abbey
. Again the roof is missing… well, actually… so are most of the walls. But the gorgeous architecture is still very much apparent. What makes this worth a stop is the story of the Abbey. It was founded in the 13th century by Devorguilla, Lady of Galloway, in memory of her husband, John Balliol l. She loved him so much that when he died she had the Abbey built in his loving memory. But what most people remember of Devorguilla is that she also had his heart embalmed and carried it around with her until her death. Devorguilla lays to rest in the presbytery behind the Abbey. Its worth a visit on the way back to the car park... its one of those eerie graveyards with 6 foot high headstones, some dating back in the 15th century.
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Dundrennan
is where Mary, Queen of Scots spent her last night on Scottish soil. It's a Cistercian abbey, founded by David I in the 12th century and sits in a small, secluded valley. Although it has historical significance, if you've seen the Sweetheart Abbey you'll be disappointed with Dundrennan Abbey, as much of the Abbey is in ruins, so see it first and work your way up.
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Whithorn was the
first Christian settlement
in Scotland (founded by St Ninian in the 5th century). It later became the cathedral church of Galloway and was a place of pilgrimage for Scottish monarchs. The museum has a notable collection of Christian crosses. There is also a fine collection of early Christian stones and archaeological excavations open to the public.
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Threave Gardens is a combination of four farms, 120 acres of woodland, and 65 acres of house policies. In 1960, the
Threave School of Gardening
opened to welcome eight students annually for a two-year course on all aspects of Victorian gardening. The Victorian mansion serves as a house and school, and the gorgeous 60 acre garden has evolved from the students' practical work. There is a little café on premises, as well as a gardening centre that has plants for purchase. Threave Castle is not on the same premises but a short distance away. There is a wonderful nature trail from the gardens to the castle. You don't actually have to enter the gardens to do the walk, but you can pick up a free map from the ticket desk. Just park in the car park and walk towards the pigs. Yes, pigs. They are on the left of the gardening centre that sells plants. It's a good 30 minute walk on a clear, well marked path.
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Threave Castle
actually has quite a walk through numerous cow pastures and sheep fields before you get to it. Then you have to take a boat across the river. And it's actually bigger inside than it looks. It's a massive tower on an island in the River Dee. It was built by Archibald the Grim in the late 14th century and was later the stronghold of the Black Douglas. It actually resembles its family name... GRIM! Once you get to the river's edge, ring the bell and the custodian will come to ferry you over. The ancient kingdom of Galloway, most of which is enclosed by Galloway Forest Park, is a popular base for outdoor activities. Within its boundaries are some of the most magnificent hiking and cycling trails of the Southern Uplands. Several trails amble past grassy peaks and icy lochs of the Awful Hand and Dungeon ranges, whilst others threads through Minnigaff Hills and Clatteringshaws Loch, a quiet lake surrounded by pine forest, with a 14-mile footpath around its circumference
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